Virupapur Gaddi - The Beach of Hampi (minus the sea)

Virupapur Gaddi welcomes you

Experience has taught me that early mornings are the best time to arrive into a new place. It was nice to witness the bustle at dawn near Virupaksha temple, which has been standing somberly near Hampi Bazaar since the 15th century. Devotees took a bath by the river before entering the temple for Darshan, but what was I doing by the river side early morning? Well, I was waiting for the boat. For, I had decided to stay on ‘the other side’ - Virupapur Gaddi(VG) popularly known as Hampi Island. Separated from Hampi Bazaar and the main temple complexes only by the Tungabhadra, it is one of the best places to base yourself during your stay here. Connected to the Bazaar only by a boat service(20 with luggage, 15 otherwise), there are several reasons why VG scores over pretty much everything else around but I chose it primarily for a distinct traveller vibe that is felt quite prominently on this side. Life here seems laidback and chilled out. It is just like being on a beach, except that the only thing missing here is the sea. Availability of budget accommodation options (as cheap as 100/night in a Bamboo Hut), good number eating joints and mopeds and bicycles on rent(150/50 day, fuel: 100) are other reasons to live here. Although chicken and other meats are banned in Hampi Bazar, it is served with delight on this side.

Sanapur lake 

Virupapur Gaddi also houses activities and places that usually don’t find a mention on the conventional tourist map of Hampi(Quite literally so, a local handbook I purchased has a detailed map of only the main area). Sanapur Lake, a serene reservoir located about 4km away from VG is a fantastic place to spend a few hours. A few signboards warn you about the presence of crocodiles but most of the locals rubbish this warning. As a result, a lot of travellers can be seen swimming around in the lake and some even try cliff jumping from above some of the tall rocks that line the shore. I was in no mood to swim but I had a good session of birdwatching by the lake. Pied Kingfisher and the Common Kingfisher put on a fantastic display of their hunting capabilities while a White Wagtail, roamed a few feet from me. There were countless number of bee eaters and a few Brahminy Kites circling the water body too. 

Chintamani Temple Complex, Anegondi 

Anegondi(also spelt Anegundi), the erstwhile capital of the Vijayanagar kingdom also lies just 7 km away from VG. The name literally means Elephant’s pit and is home to the nearest ATM(Axis Bank). I cycled down to Chintamani complex which houses the cave where Vali had held Sugreeva’s wife, it is also the spot where Rama and Lakshmana arrived at looking for Sita and also nearby lies the spot where the epic battle between Sugreeva and Vali took place. Where Rama slayed Vali and ensured, the kingdom of Kishkindha for Sugreeva. Other fascinating places which find a prominent mention in the Ramayana located at Anegondi are the Pampa Reservoir, Sabari’s cave and Anjana Parvath. Cave paintings depicting life in the earlier times can be found a km away from Anegundi towards VG.The Hanuman Temple atop this hill is one of the higher points of the region. 500 steps take you to the top and the Sunset from here is supposed to be beautiful, rewarding the climber with a panoramic view of the whole of Anegundi and the Hampi ruins on the other side of the Tungabhadra.

Jerry(Red shorts), taking a break from Climbing

Travelling to Hampi only for the boulders

Bouldering: I had read a great deal about the bouldering opportunities available in Hampi and was amazed at seeing such a growing interest in this small town amongst world’s top climbers! So when I heard about a basic introductory programme started by two enterprising young kids named Tom and Jerry (who also own a climbing gear shop by the same name), I signed up immediately. For 350 bucks, they provide you with climbing shoes, a crash pad and chalk powder - all the equipment you would need for getting started. One of them comes along with you as a guide/instructor. Jerry accompanied us and the session began with some pretty simple stretching exercises which advanced gradually, making me realise how drastically my fitness levels have fallen! Sooner, we were dusting chalk powder on our hands and trying to solve ‘problems’ - navigating small crimps(extensions and crevices on seemingly smooth rock) to ascend a boulder not more than 10 ft. Just as it is usually, when the expert demonstrated it seemed easy. However, when I tried it, I got worn out pretty easily. But after some effort, I had managed to climb a few times quite successfully. Just when I was starting to get a little excited, the sole of my already worn out climbing shoes came off. The only option was to climb bare feet or sit and clap. Well, you can figure what I chose to do. It was worth every drop of sweat. 

A lot of foreign travellers were present that evening. Not all of them amateurs though. Most of them were professional climbers. A climber from Israel, practicing closeby told me that he had arrived in Hampi only for the boulders. And that was the story of the most climbers present. In VG, climbing is practiced in the hill located opposite to Goan Corner(five minute walk from the jetty) One can rent a crash pad for 80 bucks a day from Goan Corner or other climbing stores including Tom and Jerry. Shoes are also available on rent. Mornings(6-10) and evenings (4-Sunset) are the best times to practice bouldering. An introductory course should be enough to get you familiarised but one can also just tag along with the horde of climbers that descend(or should I say ascend!, sorry) in this little corner of Virupapur Gaddi. I was quite disappointed to see almost no Indians trying their hand at Bouldering, a few instructors and I were the only Indians present. It is surprising how people from all over the world take so much interest in the natural beauty that our country is endowed so generously with and yet we continue to neglect it.

Mr. Lav, Chef, RJ, Playwright

Evenings in Virupapur were spent chilling with friends and travellers at the uber cool Oh La La cafe housed at Bobby's Guest house and run by the very affable Mr. Luv (Ramayana is everywhere in Hampi!) from Kathmandu. He also ran the German Bakery, pies and cakes of which bore the seal of approval of many western travellers! His stories about his working life in Hampi, Leh and Himachal kept us entertained. The Chef is not only a culinary expert but also a qualified RJ, a poet and a playwright. His philosophy of living is governed by the fact that we live only once and everything is worth trying out. So when he is not cooking, he is back in Kathmandu interviewing celebrities for the local radio channel, setting cultural programs and directing plays. He intends to settle down in his country with his children and family but until then he is happy whipping up fluffy cakes, hot teas and delicious food for us weary travellers to keep us going! 

Hanuman is Omnipresent

Tales of travellers are fun to hear but I generally prefer the stories that the locals have to share. In India, a lot many western travellers mistakenly categorize all Indians as same, from the North to South. Each local has a different take on India and the region that they call home, most of the times, overcoming the language barrier and communicating with them does lead to newer, exciting possibilities as I was to find out!